Helmut Lang - The Resurgence of Civilsation
What can I say about Helmut Lang? To be honest, not a lot, my knowledge of the brand is weak at best. One thing I do know is that when I saw snippets of this runway on Instagram, I knew it was one I needed to look at. I initially saw the pictures of Bella Hadid walking in a leather A-line dress with a long sleeve mesh top underneath and when I saw it, I knew it was the sort of look I would wear so I wanted to see the rest of the collection.
Before I started to write this blog post with no info I thought I would do a quick Google search and having read the Wikipedia page about Helmut Lang I have actually learnt a fair bit. I had just assumed that the man who had given his name to the brand was still involved but it turns out he has not been a part of the brand since 2005. It also states that he was big during the minimalist era of the late 80s-early 90s and that completely makes sense when you look at this seasons runway. (Wikipedia)
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| Picture from Vogue |
Spring/Summer 2020
The shows opens with a lot of white sleeveless blouses, organza and mesh. Everything looked very ethereal and clean, structured if you will. The first look that stood out to me, it reminded me of something, something from a Si-Fi film but I can't think of what it is. It is the dress in the picture above and it is a long high neck, maxi dress which has a straight fit but is tight enough to show curves but not overdo it. It is sleeveless and it almost looks like a thick, opalescent material. I want to say it was an alien wearing something like it but I honestly cannot remember! Please put me out of my misery if you know what this looks like. As I think it was an alien wearing this style of outfit, I now have in my mind that the opening section of the runway is sort of space age.
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| Picture from Vogue |
There is a lot of mesh used in the runway and pleated skirts seem to have made their return from A/W19. My favourite look from the runway has both mesh and a pleated skirt. the fit is not something I could get away with but I love the sleeveless blouse that had a very feminine shape and is definitely something I would have in my wardrobe. This has been paired with an incredibly feminine boho skirt with pleats and the most gorgeous movement. This doesn't quite seem to fit the bill of the 'severe lines' that were promised but when the khaki and military inspiration starts to come in, you can definitely see it. I feel like this opens with something very modern and also Si-Fi.
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| Picture from Vogue |
As the khaki and black come into the colour scheme, there is more structure and more military vibes. You've got large combat boots, utility pockets and all of this is summed up in the closing jacket. The closing jacket is exactly the same as the jacket in the picture above but it is black which does make it seem more wearable to me but I think the Khaki one is so representative of the strength of the shapes in this runway. Don't get me wrong the black is nice but it is hard to see the detailing whereas the Khaki shows this jacket in its best light.
Towards the end of the runway there was a neon/colour section that didn't quite seem to fit with the rest of the show but it does change up the pace. There is a lot of bright blue, with a little bit of lime green thrown in and only one item of pink, which was my personal favourite. Unlike other brands who like to combine all sorts of colours together, these outfits still remained pretty tame and all one colour. These outfits were not in the slightest bit boring due to the shaping and the cuts. There was a short sleeve blue shirt that if it had just been in pink it would have been my dream top, however it also would have been very similar to a Miu Miu top I have seen.
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| Picture from Vogue |
Based on This Show, What Should You Add to Your S/S Wardrobe?
Who Needs Sleeves? A lot of the outfits, which had not been covered by a jacket, featured sleeveless tops. I really like this and I feel like this shape helps to make your shoulders look more feminine. I actually have an old Jack Wills top that I think would fit this trend perfectly.
White Organza Isn't Just For Weddings, it can be for your weekly meeting too, as long as it is constructed into a shirt. I am loving the Organza trend at the minute and showing a little bit of skin is quite nice for the Summer.
Always Have The Option of Colour. This runway for the most part represents the colour scheme of my wardrobe: Black, White, Navy and a tiny bit of Khaki but there is a section towards the end which has a little bit of colour. Colour is something that scares a lot of us but maybe we should try and find one colour for our wardrobe.
Patterns Hide a Multitude of Sins. Patterns cover up a lot of sins when it comes to the creation of a garment, as long as you line up the pattern correctly. There are no patterns within the Helmut Lang runway, it truly is all about the construction of the garment which adds detail and I think this is such a great quality to have in a high end piece. A good basic that is cut right can stay with you for years whereas patterns go in and out of fashion very quickly.
If you want to see more of the Helmut Lang runway, here is a link to the pictures on Vogue: Helmut Lang: Spring/Summer 2020
Check out some of my other Fashion Week posts here:
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